Europe

Europe

Overview

From Andrew Harper

Even in an age of globalization, the great cities of Europe are more than mere tourist destinations; they are integral to American history and culture. Many of us fall hopelessly in love with the street market on the Rue de Buci, Sunday strolls through the Jardins des Luxembourg and the incomparable view upstream from the Pont des Arts. But for others, it is the shimmer on the surface of the Venetian lagoon, or the wisteria-draped townhouses of London’s Georgian squares that generate the same visceral attraction.

But despite the ancient stones, time on the old continent moves at the same restless pace as elsewhere. Since the fall of the Berlin Wall in November 1989, Europe has changed dramatically. Bulgaria, Romania and the Baltic States are now part of the European Union, the boundaries of which stretch from Portugal to the western edge of Russia. For the American traveler, this has brought a wealth of new opportunities. There are now luxury hotels in places as far apart as Tallinn and Dubrovnik. And Berlin itself, the Reichstag now crowned by Norman Foster’s extraordinary glass dome, has recovered its place as one of the continent’s most important and culturally vibrant cities.

Hotels

All recommended hotels in Europe

Salzburg, Austria
Hotel Schloss Monchstein

Hotel Schloss Monchstein

Romanic 24-room 14th-century manor house-hotel surrounded by a wooded park and gardens atop an escarpment overlooking the old quarters of the city (reached via a nearby funicular).

Imperial Hotels Austria AG - Hotel Goldener Hirsch

Imperial Hotels Austria AG - Hotel Goldener Hirsch

Patrician 69-room hotel in a structure dating from 1407, ideally located at the heart of Salzburg with immediate access to the maze of shopping promenades by Festival Hall, and near Mozart’s house.

Schloss Fuschl Resort & Spa

Schloss Fuschl Resort & Spa

Stunningly sited and newly renovated resort enclave crowning wooded peninsula of scenic alpine lake, 30 minutes east of Salzburg.

Tyrolean Alps, Austria
Gasthof Post

Gasthof Post

Captivating chalet-style hotel surrounded by alpine meadows in a scenic Arlberg mountain village near St. Anton, 90 minutes west of Innsbruck.

Hotel Tennerhof

Hotel Tennerhof

Family-owned hotel overlooking the resort town of Kitzbühel.

Hotel Zur Tenne

Hotel Zur Tenne

Refined manor house-hotel in the heart of renowned winter/summer resort near fashionable shops and sporting facilities.

Hoteldorf Gruner Baum

Hoteldorf Gruner Baum

Hospitable village-style enclave in a striking mountain setting bordering Hohe Tauern National Park, 90 minutes south of Salzburg.

Vienna, Austria
Hotel Bristol

Hotel Bristol

Beautifully appointed Old World hotel opposite the Opera House and next to Vienna’s main pedestrian-only shopping zone, as well as near many of the city’s attractions.

Hotel Imperial

Hotel Imperial

Stately and elegantly refurbished Italian neo-Renaissance palace-hotel adjacent to the Musikverein Concert Hall, in a fashionable downtown district near the Opera House.

Hotel Sacher Wien

Hotel Sacher Wien

Evocative 152-room hotel (home to the original Sachertorte) facing the Opera House, within easy walking distance of many of Vienna’s attractions.

Villas

All recommended villas in Europe

Cote d'Azur, France
Villa Jasmine

Villa Jasmine

An impeccably presented and stylish villa located just outside of St. Tropez.

Cote d'Azur
Vue de La Mer

Vue de La Mer

The impressive five-story, contemporary villa, set in an exclusive position on the Côte d'Azur with breathtaking views of the Cap d'Antibes, is fully air-conditioned and well-equipped for a stylish gathering with family and friends.

Cote d'Azur
Provence, France
Mas du Luberon

Mas du Luberon

This private villa in a fairy-tale Provence setting is ideal for both small and large groups.

Provence
Villa Barbet

Villa Barbet

A charming Provencal villa set in its own private grounds, within walking distance of one of the region's most famous villages, Bonnieux.

Provence
Amalfi Coast, Italy
Villa del Mare

Villa del Mare

Wonderfully maintained coastal retreat with breathtaking views of the Gulf of Naples and Capri Island.

Amalfi Coast
Tuscany, Italy
La Fornace

La Fornace

La Fornace is a stunning farmhouse with spectacular views over the Tuscan countryside.

Tuscany
La Limonaia

La Limonaia

This pair of charming converted farmhouses with beautiful gardens is centrally located to explore the wonders of Tuscany, and offer flexible accommodation ideal for a group of friends or a family villa holiday.

Tuscany
Villa di Panzano

Villa di Panzano

Villa di Panzano lies deep in the Tuscan countryside in the Chianti region amid vineyards, cypress trees and rolling green hills.

Chianti
Villa Il Sogno

Villa Il Sogno

A beautiful country road with pristine views leads up to the two-story villa situated on 3 acres of property.

Fiesole
Villa La Tenuta

Villa La Tenuta

A charming Tuscan farmhouse ideal for a family villa vacation. A generously sized interior and large grounds easily accommodate up to 12 guests and the services of a cook for six days every week make for a very comfortable holiday villa.

Tuscany

Dining

All recommended restaurants in Europe

100 MANEIRAS

Located in the stylish Bairro Alto, this lively restaurant draws a well-heeled crowd for the modern Portuguese dishes of Bosnian-born chef Ljubomir Stanisic. Stanisic creates intriguing tasting menus that change constantly, but run to dishes such as sautéed foie gras in chestnut flour with a Muscatel-pineapple reduction, and pistachio-crusted goat with quinoa.

Rua do Teixeira 35
Lisbon 1200
Portugal
US$100
21212

The restaurant’s name comes from Chef Paul Kitching’s five-course menu, which offers two choices for starter, main course and dessert, with one selection each for the intervening soup and cheese. Representative dishes have included, as a starter, slowly baked smoked haddock with smoked salmon, Thai sweet corn and saffron-egg pancakes; and as a main, roast lamb with lentils, leeks, mushrooms, merguez sausage, morels and glazed lemons. The restaurant is set in a restored Georgian townhouse and there are four handsome rooms upstairs for overnight stays.

3 Royal Terrace
Edinburgh, SC EH7 5AB
United Kingdom
US$100
ABAC

Chef Jordi Cruz was the youngest Spanish chef ever to win a Michelin star, at the restaurant Estany Clar. In this sleek, stylish space, Cruz, a culinary celebrity in Catalonia, showcases local produce in dishes such as scallops on potato blinis, lobster Bolognese, roasted octopus with a shrimp emulsion, and roasted baby lamb with vanilla.

Avenida Tibidabo 1
Barcelona 08022
Spain
US$125
AGATA E ROMEO
Husband-and-wife team Agata Parisella and Romeo Caraccio fuse contemporary cuisine with venerable Roman traditions. Dishes include ravioli filled with braised oxtail, the simple yet simply delicious spaghetti with grated Pecorino cheese and black pepper, Mediterranean scorpion fish with a potato foam and sea urchins, and rich braised veal cheek with a parsnip purée.
Via Carlo Alberto 45
Rome 00185
Italy
US$110
AKELARE

Chef Pedro Subijana Reza was one of the founders of the New Basque cooking movement. We sampled the “Arakori” menu, which began with oysters in an edible “shell,” and continued with a fricassee of wild mushrooms with powdered nuts and a soy mayonnaise, turbot with mussels and lentils, succulent Iberian pork, rhubarb sorbet with candied herbs, and a rolled cake with a mulberry sauce and milk meringue. The contemporary dining room offers memorable views of the Bay of Biscay.

Paseodel Padre Orcolaga 56, Igueldo
San Sebastián 20008
Spain
US$145
Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée

Featuring a glamorous dove-gray décor and a ceiling glittering with 10,000 suspended pieces of cut crystal (the work of young French interior designer Patrick Jouin), the Paris restaurant of globe-trotting chef Alain Ducasse offers a grand slam experience of contemporary French haute cuisine, with some of the best service in the world and a remarkable wine list. Ducasse himself is not in the kitchen, but his lieutenant Christophe Saintagne creates delicious dishes such as langoustines napped with crème fraiche and caviar, turbot with shellfish and Swiss chard, and one of my favorite desserts in the world, caillé de brebis, caramel, poivre, or fresh ewe’s milk cheese with caramel and pepper. A real pomp-and-circumstance address with an international clientele, it’s also ideal for a special-occasion meal or a long, leisurely lunch.

Hôtel Plaza-Athénée, 25 avenue Montaigne (8e)
Paris 75008
France
US$250, with fixed menus priced higher
ALATSI

The famously healthy cooking of Crete, with its use of olive oil, vegetables, fruit and yogurt, is popular in Athens, and Alatsi is the place to sample this cuisine at its finest. Watch for chef Dimitris Skarmoutsos’ fine dolmadakia (grape leaves stuffed with rice and Cretan herbs); gamopilafo, a pilaf made with chicken and lamb in a rich stock and ewe’s milk butter; snails boubouristi (fried in olive oil, vinegar and rosemary); and cabbage rice with smoked pork.

Vrasida 13
Athens 11528
Greece
US$50
ALTA TABERNA PACO MERALGO

Conveniently located in the central Eixample neighborhood, this attractive modern tapas bar with oak tables and good lighting takes reservations and most of the staff speak English, making it much easier to enjoy the excellent selection of tapas. Try the pan con tomate, the delicious Catalan specialty of toasted bread dressed with olive oil, crushed fresh tomato and a little garlic; sautéed baby clams; tortilla Espanola (potato-filled omelet); and tuna belly dressed with sesame oil and soy sauce.

Muntaner 171
Barcelona 08036
Spain
US$50
Amaya

This elegant restaurant draws a well-dressed crowd for some of the very best Indian food in the world. Chefs working in the attractive open kitchen prepare wonderful dishes such as lobster in masala sauce, chicken biryani, and a sublime pomegranate sorbet for dessert. 

Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street, SW1.
London SW1X 8JT
United Kingdom
US$65
ANTICA TRATTORIA DELLA PESA

With a handsome Belle Epoque interior, this friendly restaurant with professional service is where the Milanese come for local comfort food such as riso al salto, a crispy pancake of saffron-flavored rice; osso buco; and a first-rate cotoletta Milanese (a flattened veal chop dredged in bread crumbs and fried). Desserts include caramelized apple cake and an excellent zabaione.

Viale Pasubio 10
Milan 20154
Italy
US$65