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Video: An Overdue Return to Southern Kenya

On a clear day, there is no grander sight in Africa than the snowcapped cone of Mount Kilimanjaro, resting on a quilt of haze above the grasslands of southeastern Kenya. This is the view from the main deck of Ol Donyo Lodge, as well as from its six comfortable cottages and two-bedroom family suite. Built along a forested ridge at the base of the Chyulu Hills, Ol Donyo is situated on a private concession within a 430-square-mile group ranch owned by Maasai pastoralists. Here, guests have the wildlife to themselves. The region around Ol Donyo is famous for its huge elephant — some with tusks weighing 175 pounds each — which survive unmolested thanks to effective conservation policies endorsed by the local people. Cheetahs stalk the grasslands in pursuit of antelopes, while the area’s two lion prides prefer to ambush their prey from pockets of thick bush. Ol Donyo is a wonderfully atmospheric and hospitable lodge, as well as being a living fragment of the old Kenya that existed before the advent of mass tourism.

The Maasai Mara National Reserve is located around 200 miles from Ol Donyo, in southwestern Kenya. The country’s best-known park can be overcrowded at times, especially during the Kenyan phase of the wildebeest migration in August and September each year, when thousands of animals forge the crocodile-infested Mara River. (During the pandemic, the reserve has been uncharacteristically deserted.) A northern extension of Tanzania’s huge Serengeti National Park, the Maasai Mara comprises the main reserve (where the worst of the overcrowding occurs), the Mara Triangle (separately managed by a not-for-profit organization) and a series of private conservancies owned by local Maasai. Immense savannas dotted with flat-topped acacia trees — the iconic landscape of East Africa — are home to astounding numbers of animals, including literally hundreds of lions.

Set on the banks of the Mara River, Sanctuary Olonana has long been a lodge favored by Andrew Harper members. In 2018, its tented accommodations were replaced by 14 sumptuous glass-sided bungalows, which now represent the height of safari luxury. Olanana has an intimate, almost secretive atmosphere, engendered by the river and the surrounding forest. Located just 30 minutes away, Angama Mara forms a striking contrast. Perched 1,000 feet above the plains, atop the Siria Escarpment, it offers an astonishing view of the Mara Triangle from both its public areas and distinctive tented suites. The property comprises two self-contained camps (of 15 suites each), plus a shared central complex with a horizon pool and a glass-fronted gym. In addition to its peerless setting, Angama Mara is distinguished by its food, which is imaginative and well prepared. And unlike many safari properties, the lodge actively welcomes families. Despite the seasonal crowds, the game viewing in the Maasai Mara remains some of the most spectacular and rewarding in the whole of Africa.

Read more about our editor’s trip to East Africa

By Andrew Harper The editor-in-chief of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report has spent his life traveling, visiting more than 100 countries on every continent. If pressed, he cites Italy as his favorite place in the world, but he is also strongly drawn to wilderness areas, especially in the Himalayas and southern Africa. He has lost track of the number of safaris he has taken, but the total is probably close to 50. In addition to wildlife, his passions include fly-fishing and hiking. After working with the founder of the company for five years, he took over as his chosen successor in 2007.
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