Above: Dining room at La Soupe Populaire

Berlin Dining With a Sense of Place

Berlin has a vibrant culinary scene, ranging from flavorful Turkish street food to palace-style Michelin two-star establishments such as Fischers Fritz and Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer. On this recent visit, I discovered three restaurants that serve exquisite food in spaces with a strong sense of place.

La Soupe Populaire

Tim Raue’s eponymous restaurant deserves its two-star rating, but this time I wanted to try his wildly popular informal restaurant in Prenzlauer Berg, La Soupe Populaire, housed in the 19th-century headquarters of the Bötzow Brewery. Walking past a crashed bus sculpture into what appeared to be an abandoned factory, we had no question that we were in Berlin. The permanent menu offers modern versions of local classics, and a second rotating menu draws inspiration from the changing contemporary art exhibition displayed on the exposed brick walls among the old girders and pipes. I loved my sweet and spicy red prawns with cumin-spiked couscous, and the delicate Königsberger Klopse, traditional meatballs made here with veal, tête de veau and veal tongue served with wine-spiked chicken gravy, beets and buttery potato purée. Very friendly English-speaking staff.

La Soupe Populaire
Prenzlauer Allee 242. Tel. (49) 30-4431-9680

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