Rising like a Mayan pyramid from the vineyards, the Catena Zapata winery is one of Mendoza’s most popular stops. We took the basic tour, accompanied by 10 other people, which included tastes of refined Chardonnay, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Alta line, available in the United States. But what really made this visit worthwhile was our private tour of the experimental winery, led by two enthusiastic and aspiring winemakers. I delighted in sampling cutting-edge wines right from the barrel, such as a rich and warmly spicy Roussanne and a surprisingly good Criolla, a variety typically relegated to bulk wine. My favorite was the gorgeous passito of Malbec, a zesty, jammy wine made from sun-dried grapes. This tour, among others, confirmed that Argentine winemakers are not content to simply sit on their Malbec laurels. Mendoza continues to be a hub of viticultural innovation.