Above: A lodging on the Zambezi River at Victoria Falls River Lodge Island Treehouses near Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Contrasting Safari Lodges at Victoria Falls

At the height of the Zambezi River’s flow, in March, April and May, the Victoria Falls becomes the world’s largest single curtain of water. But the view can be obscured by spray. On our recent January trip, the Zambezi was diminished. Even so, the combination of silvery cascades and rocky cliffs, all fringed by emerald forest, made the landscape appear paradisiacal.

Most people avoid traveling during the region’s rainy season, which extends from November to March. But if you do, there are two significant benefits: fewer visitors and lower prices. The landscape is also prettier — being green rather than brown — though the foliage can make it more difficult to see animals, especially at a distance. (National parks on either side of Victoria Falls provide excellent game viewing.)

We had good luck with the weather. After clear, sunny mornings, thunderheads would slowly build in the afternoon. During our sundowner cruises on the Zambezi, towers of clouds arose on the horizon, flashing with occasional bolts of lightning. I loved watching the distant drama as we sat in comfort, sipping our gin and tonics and searching out eagles, herons and jacanas with binoculars.

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