Rome has long been renowned for traditional food rather than cutting-edge cuisine. Dishes such as cacio e pepe, carbonara and saltimbocca are the mainstays. I have no complaints. I love traditional Roman cuisine. And I am pleased to say that there is still no shortage of charming trattorias that produce superb versions of it.

But nowadays, those who have less amore for amatriciana can choose from a widening selection of contemporary and experimental eateries. On my recent visit, I discovered seven restaurants that had opened (or been substantially updated) within the past couple years, ranging from classic to avant-garde.

Romans claim that the best establishments are outside the historic center, away from the tourist crowds. Certainly the outer neighborhoods offer some excellent dining, but I can’t be bothered to take a taxi every night to dinner. So I kept to restaurants that were within walking distance of at least one of our recommended hotels.