Although it’s virtually impossible for Americans to travel to Bordeaux as of this writing, the prospect of a future trip there still brings a smile to my face. Any wine lover would find a visit deeply rewarding. But in addition to picturesque vineyard-blanketed countryside, Bordeaux is blessed with a world-class city at its heart.

An ambitious restoration program in the mid-to-late 1990s brought back the grandeur of the historic center’s harmonious 18th-century limestone buildings. The magnificent neoclassical Place de la Bourse, facing the Garonne River, is one of the most impressive squares in Europe, and the opera house, facing the pedestrianized Place de la Comédie, is one of the continent’s loveliest. With its many inviting cafés and wine bars, Bordeaux is a joy to explore on foot. And in 2016, the city opened the architecturally striking Cité du Vin, a dramatically contemporary multimedia exposition center devoted to the history, geography and art of wine.

Yndō Hôtel

My favorite hideaway in town is the chic Yndō Hôtel, housed in a 19th-century townhouse just outside the old center, a 15-minute walk from the opera house (and a 10-minute walk from the 500-bottle Cognac Only boutique, a mandatory stop). Although this hotel has just 12 accommodations, it offers an impressive array of services and amenities, including round-the-clock room service, air-conditioning and a guests-only restaurant. We had a splendid evening there in August 2015 starting with Kir Royales on the sunny patio, followed by a dinner of flawlessly fresh local oysters, handmade fettuccine with lemon and a delicious roast chicken for two. With glasses of Sauternes, we retired to the striking lounge, its ornate plasterwork and wall paneling stylishly contrasted by contemporary furnishings.