Most travelers to Hungary experience only the capital, but a stay in the provinces makes for a rewarding extension. Wine lovers should consider spending a couple of nights in Tokaj (stopping in picturesque Eger en route). Famous for its Sauternes-like dessert wines, Tokaj was one of the world’s first classified wine regions. Its vineyard sites received quality designations in 1700, a century and a half before Bordeaux. We had a splendid time tromping through 500-year-old cellars and savoring the powerful wines. When I return, I’m eager to try one of the three suites in a restored mansion operated by the Barta winery. At Hertelendy Kastély, I delighted in the graceful rhythms of Hungarian-manor-house living. It would have made a fine base for excursions, but I couldn’t bring myself to leave the lovely estate.

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