The heartland of Tuscany lies between the cities of Florence and Siena. Although this area remains one of the loveliest in the world, there are seasons of the year when it suffers from a surfeit of admirers. Many discriminating foreign visitors now seek seclusion in the unspoiled and romantic Maremma. This adjoining region falls within the borders of Tuscany but is markedly different in character. Long a favorite destination of the Tuscans themselves, the Maremma is a place of rolling hills bounded by the sandy beaches of the Mediterranean. More than 2,000 years ago it was the center of the remarkable Etruscan civilization, but today just a handful of enigmatic ruins remain.