One of the last strongholds of the Moors in Spain, Granada is home to one of the greatest monuments in all of Europe. Unfortunately, it is a place that suffers from a surfeit of admirers. For much of the year, the tourist buses disgorge their multitudes, and the place loses some of its magic. Out of season, however, it is still possible to revel in the exquisite beauty of the Alhambra (“Red Fortress”) and the Generalife (“Architect’s Garden”), the final flowering of Moorish architectural and decorative genius.