Ambergris Caye is a 20-minute flight north of the international airport at Belize City. Approximately 25 miles long by a mile wide, it is ringed by white sand. The island’s principal attraction is the magnificent barrier reef that lies immediately offshore. There, dazzling coral gardens thrive amid translucent waters. Fly fishermen search the shallow flats nearby for bonefish, permit and tarpon. The snorkeling and diving may be superb, but beds of turtle grass often impede direct access to the water. This need not be a great inconvenience. At Victoria House, for example, a long wooden pier extends from the beach to a clear swimming area beyond the weeds.